In honor of Jessica Lane,
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
Materials:
Baby yarn
size 8 Needles
size : 0-3 months
Baby Hat:
Pattern: CO 40 sts.
Row 1-6: k2, p2 Repeat across
Row's 7 & 9: Knit Across
Row 8's & 10: Purl Across
Row's 11-14: knit across (4 rows)
Row 15 & 17 : Knit across
Row 16 & 18: purl across
Row's 19-22: knit across (4 rows)
Row's 23 & 25: knit cross
Row's 24 & 26: Purl across
Row's 27-30: Knit across (4 rows)
Row 31:knit across
Row 32: purl across
Row 33: K2 together all the way across (20 sts)
Row 34: Purl across , DO NOT FINISH OFF, (20 sts)
Row 35: K2 together all the way across (10 sts)
Row 36: Purl across , DO NOT FINISH OFF, (10 sts)
cut a long tail of yarn thread through a needle, carefully go through loops of
the 10 sts on your knitting needles, pull tight closing the top of hat, now line up your side seems, and whip st all the way down, fasten off & tuck in tail
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Below is the pattern I used for the booties, they whip up quickly and I just love how they look and feel.
Bev's Easy Newborn Booties:
http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/baby-hats-booties.html#BEVS
Welcome to "Jeanarie's Patterns"- (Blessing others One Stitch at a Time)
"Childrens Hospital Donation"
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Frindship Shawl
13 Needles
2 skeins of Lion Brand Soft Chunky yarn
Row 1: CO 1 , knit 1 make 1 (in same st) (2 sts),
Row 2: knit 1 & make 1 in same st, knit next st, (3 sts)
Row 3: knit 1, make 1 (in same st), knit across (4 sts)
Row 4: knit 1, make 1 (in same st), knit across (5 sts)
Row 5: knit 1, make 1 (in same st), knit across (6 sts)
Row 6: knit 1, make 1 (in same st), knit across (7 sts)
Row 7: knit 3, yo, knit across
REPEAT ROW 7 until shawl measures about 32"
knit across for 3 more rows (NO yo), bind off, tuck in tail and enjoy..
I call this my Friendship shawl. Perfect for every occision, so soft and cuddling
{NO it is not my pattern} I do believe it was adupted from the Grandmothers dishcloth pattern but I'm not for sure, I just know i'ts wonderful and easy to make and truly loved by all who recieve it...JMSQ
Make Your Own
"JMSQ "Copyright © 1990 - 2011
I have added some easy "FREE" patterns for Bloomers, Half Slips, &
Headcoverings for you to use if you choose to wear a covering
(1 Corinth 11) so you won't have to go to the expence of buying
patterns or having to have them made.
1.) Shepherd's Hill (Free Headcovering & Apron Patterns)
2.) Circle Covering
3.) Triangle Covering
4.) Square Covering
5.) Prayer Covering (LG)
6.) Prayer Shawls (sm & Lg)
7.) Snoods (Make Your Own)
8.) Triangle & D Shape Scarfs
9.) Bun Covers
10.) Flannel Slips
11.) Bloomers
12.) Modest Patterns
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1.) Shepherd's Hill
http://pgburrell.home.mindspring.com/index.html
Simple Snoods from Doilies
http://knotsindeed.com/patterns/snoods/doilysnood.html
Ruffled Bun Cover Pattern
http://jeanariespatterns.blogspot.com/2010/11/bun-cover.html
2.) Circle Covering
Takes a plate of the size you want, draws around
it on paper, Just cut the circle of lace using your paper
pattern, and add the border of the strips of lace. These are really simple to make.
3.) Triangle Coverings
Lg. Covering 22" (front top) x 60" x 60" (side Points)
Sm. covering 18" (front top) x 39" x 39" (side points
Roll hem or 1/4" hem around, add lace, tie behind head, (or) pin to top of head and let it remain loose along sides of head.
(NOTE) these are beautiful when made out of lace
4.) Square Covering
27-1/2" x 27-1/2"
Roll hem or 1/4" hem around, add flat lace, fold into a triangle and tie behind head
5.) (LG) Prayer Covering
40 1/2" x 40 1/2"
Turn up 1/4" hem, repeat around, then turn up 1/4" and sew, can add lace if wanted. Fold into a triangle and loosly drape over head freely, or tuck in front corners
under callor of garmet worn
6.)Prayer Shawls
Large- 35"x75"
Small- 17"x44" (my fav.17" to 20"x72")
Choose size of your prayer shawl measurments, cut fabric, either use a roll hem, or small reg. delicate hem. Looks great with lace around or frings on the ends
7.) Snood (Make Your Own) Hair Snood
A hair what? Also known as a "caul" this is a little cap or bag for a lady to wear her hair in.
Sounds strange until you've seen one, I know. Until this century a married and respectable woman always wore her hair covered by a cap of some sort when she was seen in public, or outside of her dressing room for that matter. Looking like you just woke up might be trendy today, but if you're dressing up for a Renaissance Fair or an SCA party, you can add a lot to your costume with this simple piece.
If you have short hair you can hide the length in the snood and nobody will know it isn't long and just pinned up.
This is not a difficult project, but does take a day's worth of hand sewing.
What you need:
1/2 yard of metallic gold or silver net
1/2 yard of dark lightweight lining
fake pearls, rhinestones, or gold beads 1 pk 1/2" double fold bias tape (either black or to match your lining) thread to match your lining embroidery hoop (the bigger the better, 16" works well for this)
Use a tape measure to find out how big your head is from the nape of your neck around the top of your head. You should get a number between 22 and 25 inches. Write this number down for later.
Iron your lining if you need to. Cut an 18" square of lining.
Lay out the netting so it is flat and straight. This stuff tends to curl at the edges and shift
out of place easily. Work with it a bit to get it even. It makes a difference in the end.
Cut an 18" square of netting.
Fold the lining and the netting into quarters or eigths and trim it into a circle. You do not
have to fold them together. You can fold each piece separately. It might help to keep them flat.
When you have two circles lay the net on top of the lining and place the layers in your
embroidery hoop.
You can now sew on the pearls or rhinestones, catching the net to the lining with each pearl. I suggest sewing a pearl every 1-2 inches in an even pattern. You can alternate pearls and rhinestones for a more decorative effect if you like.
Sew pearls all over the top of the net except for a 1" margin all around the edge. You may have to move or remove the hoop to get to all the places you want to sew on.
When you're satisfied with the decoration, take the fabric out of the hoop.
Now, remember that number you wrote down in step 1? Get some thread and gather your beaded circle until you have it at the same measurement your head is. You should have something that looks like a shallow, wide-mouthed pouch.
Using lots of pins attach the bias tape over the raw edges of the gathered circle. When you get to the end where the tape overlaps, fold the end of the tape down so the raw edge is tucked under.
Sew it down. The neatest way to do this is to put the right side of the tape on the right side of the snood, pin it all around and sew it down with a very narrow seam, then fold the tape under to the inside and hand stitch down.
The fast way to do it is to pin the tape over the edge of the circle and sew all three layers down at once. Sometimes you miss the seam on the underside, though. Not a great tragedy, but it won't win you points from the Costume Police.
To wear this put your hair up in a bun or a ponytail. Put the snood bag over the back of your head, catching the pinned up hair in it. Pin the snood to your hair with hairpins or clips. You can also sew a comb to the inside of the snood to help hold it in place. If your hair is really fine like mine is, try wearing a headband, and pinning the top of the snood to the headband.
For variation you can make these plain, without beading and the gold net, or out of a nice rich fabric like velvet. Be careful of brocade fabrics which can be too stiff to gather into a headband.
8.)Triangle or "D" shaped Scarves:
Triangle Scarf: These are simplicity itself to create. If you can sew a straight seam on a
sewing machine, you can whip up half a dozen in less than an hour. The easiest way to make a triangle scarf is to get a yard of fabric, and trim it so that it is 36" square. Fold the fabric into a triangle, and cut down the fold. You now have two identical triangles of fabric.
Make a narrow hem on each of the three corners of one of the triangles, and you have a perfect scarf.
"D" Shaped Scarf: Take the other triangle and fold it in half down the center. The portion of the scarf which would hang down your back in a point can be rounded off turning your triangle into a rounded "D" shape. This is more feminine and conservative looking than the plain triangle. Hem the edges the way you did for the triangle scarf. Add a bit of narrow lace to the curve of the "D" if you like. This type of scarf is very nice for formal occasions like church.
To hide the clips: I sew little felt pockets on the underside of my scarves to hide the clips that I use to secure the scarf to my hair. I use a straight stitch and matching thread. The felt won't be seen from the outside, so it can be any color really, although I try to match the felt to the scarf color as closely as I can with the scraps I have in a felt bag. Once the scarf is on your head, the stitching is invisible. The scarf seems more attractive to me with the clips hidden underneath than it does with the clips showing on the outside.
9.)Bun Covers:
You will need a lace crocheted doily to make the bun cover. If you don't crochet yourself you can purchase these ready made at Walmart. They are usually found among the tablecloths. If your bun is very big you will need a 10 inch doily. If you bun is simply large, an 8 inch doily will suffice. For fine, or medium length hair, there are 6" doilies available. Usually white and cream colored are the only two choices. These can be dyed if you really need another color.
Otherwise, get about a yard of matching ribbon. Thread the ribbon through the outer crochet holes, close to the edge of the doily. Weave the ribbon in and out of the holes all the way around. I use a safety pin attached to one end of the ribbon to make it easier to poke the ribbon in and out of the crochet holes. When the ribbon is threaded all the way around, gather it up. Slip it over your bun, and tie it in a pretty bow. There, you re done.
10.)Flannel Half Slips:
You will need two yards of 45" wide fabric for a full (sweeping) half slip. Cut your fabric into two rectangles, 36" by 45" each. Sew the rectangles together, right sides facing, on the two 36" sides. I leave the selvedges in place and let them be the seam finishes. Turn down one 45" (now about 90") edge to form a casing big enough for a piece of elastic. Insert elastic the measurement of your waist, plus an inch for seams. Stitch, or pin the elastic together, and try the petticoat on to make sure it fits around the waist. See if the length is good. Shorten if necessary. Hem the bottom of the petticoat as you see fit. I fold the fabric down about 1/4" and then again about 1/2" and straight stitch it into place. I usually sew a nice piece of lace to the bottom of the petticoat using a zig zag stitch. I like wide lace, about an inch, or two in width. This type of slip is perfect for an extra layer of warmth under jumpers and loose fitting skirts and dresses in the winter time. For more warmth, use a quilted fabric, or wear two petticoats at once.
11.)Bloomers:
You will need a simple commercial shorts pattern with an elastic waist, which fits you sort of loosely about the rear end and thighs. It is important that the pattern be large enough about these areas so that they won't end up restricting your movement as you chase wandering toddlers, into oncoming traffic, and wrestle large dogs into the van on Vet Day. This pattern can be used to make comfy flannel shorts, or feminine old fashioned bloomers, both of which can take the place of underwear if you feel so called. Cut out the flannel fabric as directed to in the pattern. Make sure the length of the shorts is what you want. Lengthen or shorten them as you desire. Follow the directions for the leg seams, side seams, crotch seams and elastic waist.
When it comes time to hem them, make a casing for elastic instead of an actual hem. I do this by folding over the fabric twice, leaving room to thread in 1/4" wide elastic. Measure the elastic around the portion of your body the hem will touch. Make it a bit bigger than you think you should for movement. Thread the elastic through the casing. Sew the elastic ends together, and stitch the casing closed. There you have Bloomers. They can be worn under dresses in the cold weather, to keep your innards warm and toasty. You don't really have to put elastic on the bottoms of the bloomers, but it is sort of ruffly and pretty and keeps in the heat a bit better.
I like a bit of lace sewed down to the bottom edge of the bloomers before I thread the elastic through, but this is personal matter. I prefer my bloomers and shorts to have an inseam about the same as Capri pants. Use your own judgement one way or the other.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
12.) MODEST PATTERNS
For clothing, some suggestions if you are not wearing cape dresses would
include jumpers (there are some easy ones out there), pioneer clothing, some
other historical type clothing like Victorian or Edwardian. You can check
online at the various websites like http://www.simplicity.com/ for easy jumper
patterns like 9830 or 5917 or other dresses. Personally, I cut some patterns
longer and fuller than what are called for in the pattern. I like my skirts
down to just above my ankles. There is pattern 9723 for a nice, classical
modest look. Or if you check http://www.mccall.com/ you can check the various
patterns of McCall's, Vogue or Butterick. There are also sites that you can
order patterns from for Plain, modest clothing like http://www.modestpatterns.com/,
or http://www.modestsewingpatterns.com/ (from The King's Daughters) or some others.
This dress pattern makes very nice, not dowdy pleated shirtwaists. So you can wear those around the house for your hubby then cover more with the cape and apron.
http://www.commonsensepatterns.com/patterns_friends.htm
I have added some easy "FREE" patterns for Bloomers, Half Slips, &
Headcoverings for you to use if you choose to wear a covering
(1 Corinth 11) so you won't have to go to the expence of buying
patterns or having to have them made.
1.) Shepherd's Hill (Free Headcovering & Apron Patterns)
2.) Circle Covering
3.) Triangle Covering
4.) Square Covering
5.) Prayer Covering (LG)
6.) Prayer Shawls (sm & Lg)
7.) Snoods (Make Your Own)
8.) Triangle & D Shape Scarfs
9.) Bun Covers
10.) Flannel Slips
11.) Bloomers
12.) Modest Patterns
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1.) Shepherd's Hill
http://pgburrell.home.mindspring.com/index.html
Simple Snoods from Doilies
http://knotsindeed.com/patterns/snoods/doilysnood.html
Ruffled Bun Cover Pattern
http://jeanariespatterns.blogspot.com/2010/11/bun-cover.html
2.) Circle Covering
Takes a plate of the size you want, draws around
it on paper, Just cut the circle of lace using your paper
pattern, and add the border of the strips of lace. These are really simple to make.
3.) Triangle Coverings
Lg. Covering 22" (front top) x 60" x 60" (side Points)
Sm. covering 18" (front top) x 39" x 39" (side points
Roll hem or 1/4" hem around, add lace, tie behind head, (or) pin to top of head and let it remain loose along sides of head.
(NOTE) these are beautiful when made out of lace
4.) Square Covering
27-1/2" x 27-1/2"
Roll hem or 1/4" hem around, add flat lace, fold into a triangle and tie behind head
5.) (LG) Prayer Covering
40 1/2" x 40 1/2"
Turn up 1/4" hem, repeat around, then turn up 1/4" and sew, can add lace if wanted. Fold into a triangle and loosly drape over head freely, or tuck in front corners
under callor of garmet worn
6.)Prayer Shawls
Large- 35"x75"
Small- 17"x44" (my fav.17" to 20"x72")
Choose size of your prayer shawl measurments, cut fabric, either use a roll hem, or small reg. delicate hem. Looks great with lace around or frings on the ends
7.) Snood (Make Your Own) Hair Snood
A hair what? Also known as a "caul" this is a little cap or bag for a lady to wear her hair in.
Sounds strange until you've seen one, I know. Until this century a married and respectable woman always wore her hair covered by a cap of some sort when she was seen in public, or outside of her dressing room for that matter. Looking like you just woke up might be trendy today, but if you're dressing up for a Renaissance Fair or an SCA party, you can add a lot to your costume with this simple piece.
If you have short hair you can hide the length in the snood and nobody will know it isn't long and just pinned up.
This is not a difficult project, but does take a day's worth of hand sewing.
What you need:
1/2 yard of metallic gold or silver net
1/2 yard of dark lightweight lining
fake pearls, rhinestones, or gold beads 1 pk 1/2" double fold bias tape (either black or to match your lining) thread to match your lining embroidery hoop (the bigger the better, 16" works well for this)
Use a tape measure to find out how big your head is from the nape of your neck around the top of your head. You should get a number between 22 and 25 inches. Write this number down for later.
Iron your lining if you need to. Cut an 18" square of lining.
Lay out the netting so it is flat and straight. This stuff tends to curl at the edges and shift
out of place easily. Work with it a bit to get it even. It makes a difference in the end.
Cut an 18" square of netting.
Fold the lining and the netting into quarters or eigths and trim it into a circle. You do not
have to fold them together. You can fold each piece separately. It might help to keep them flat.
When you have two circles lay the net on top of the lining and place the layers in your
embroidery hoop.
You can now sew on the pearls or rhinestones, catching the net to the lining with each pearl. I suggest sewing a pearl every 1-2 inches in an even pattern. You can alternate pearls and rhinestones for a more decorative effect if you like.
Sew pearls all over the top of the net except for a 1" margin all around the edge. You may have to move or remove the hoop to get to all the places you want to sew on.
When you're satisfied with the decoration, take the fabric out of the hoop.
Now, remember that number you wrote down in step 1? Get some thread and gather your beaded circle until you have it at the same measurement your head is. You should have something that looks like a shallow, wide-mouthed pouch.
Using lots of pins attach the bias tape over the raw edges of the gathered circle. When you get to the end where the tape overlaps, fold the end of the tape down so the raw edge is tucked under.
Sew it down. The neatest way to do this is to put the right side of the tape on the right side of the snood, pin it all around and sew it down with a very narrow seam, then fold the tape under to the inside and hand stitch down.
The fast way to do it is to pin the tape over the edge of the circle and sew all three layers down at once. Sometimes you miss the seam on the underside, though. Not a great tragedy, but it won't win you points from the Costume Police.
To wear this put your hair up in a bun or a ponytail. Put the snood bag over the back of your head, catching the pinned up hair in it. Pin the snood to your hair with hairpins or clips. You can also sew a comb to the inside of the snood to help hold it in place. If your hair is really fine like mine is, try wearing a headband, and pinning the top of the snood to the headband.
For variation you can make these plain, without beading and the gold net, or out of a nice rich fabric like velvet. Be careful of brocade fabrics which can be too stiff to gather into a headband.
8.)Triangle or "D" shaped Scarves:
Triangle Scarf: These are simplicity itself to create. If you can sew a straight seam on a
sewing machine, you can whip up half a dozen in less than an hour. The easiest way to make a triangle scarf is to get a yard of fabric, and trim it so that it is 36" square. Fold the fabric into a triangle, and cut down the fold. You now have two identical triangles of fabric.
Make a narrow hem on each of the three corners of one of the triangles, and you have a perfect scarf.
"D" Shaped Scarf: Take the other triangle and fold it in half down the center. The portion of the scarf which would hang down your back in a point can be rounded off turning your triangle into a rounded "D" shape. This is more feminine and conservative looking than the plain triangle. Hem the edges the way you did for the triangle scarf. Add a bit of narrow lace to the curve of the "D" if you like. This type of scarf is very nice for formal occasions like church.
To hide the clips: I sew little felt pockets on the underside of my scarves to hide the clips that I use to secure the scarf to my hair. I use a straight stitch and matching thread. The felt won't be seen from the outside, so it can be any color really, although I try to match the felt to the scarf color as closely as I can with the scraps I have in a felt bag. Once the scarf is on your head, the stitching is invisible. The scarf seems more attractive to me with the clips hidden underneath than it does with the clips showing on the outside.
9.)Bun Covers:
You will need a lace crocheted doily to make the bun cover. If you don't crochet yourself you can purchase these ready made at Walmart. They are usually found among the tablecloths. If your bun is very big you will need a 10 inch doily. If you bun is simply large, an 8 inch doily will suffice. For fine, or medium length hair, there are 6" doilies available. Usually white and cream colored are the only two choices. These can be dyed if you really need another color.
Otherwise, get about a yard of matching ribbon. Thread the ribbon through the outer crochet holes, close to the edge of the doily. Weave the ribbon in and out of the holes all the way around. I use a safety pin attached to one end of the ribbon to make it easier to poke the ribbon in and out of the crochet holes. When the ribbon is threaded all the way around, gather it up. Slip it over your bun, and tie it in a pretty bow. There, you re done.
10.)Flannel Half Slips:
You will need two yards of 45" wide fabric for a full (sweeping) half slip. Cut your fabric into two rectangles, 36" by 45" each. Sew the rectangles together, right sides facing, on the two 36" sides. I leave the selvedges in place and let them be the seam finishes. Turn down one 45" (now about 90") edge to form a casing big enough for a piece of elastic. Insert elastic the measurement of your waist, plus an inch for seams. Stitch, or pin the elastic together, and try the petticoat on to make sure it fits around the waist. See if the length is good. Shorten if necessary. Hem the bottom of the petticoat as you see fit. I fold the fabric down about 1/4" and then again about 1/2" and straight stitch it into place. I usually sew a nice piece of lace to the bottom of the petticoat using a zig zag stitch. I like wide lace, about an inch, or two in width. This type of slip is perfect for an extra layer of warmth under jumpers and loose fitting skirts and dresses in the winter time. For more warmth, use a quilted fabric, or wear two petticoats at once.
11.)Bloomers:
You will need a simple commercial shorts pattern with an elastic waist, which fits you sort of loosely about the rear end and thighs. It is important that the pattern be large enough about these areas so that they won't end up restricting your movement as you chase wandering toddlers, into oncoming traffic, and wrestle large dogs into the van on Vet Day. This pattern can be used to make comfy flannel shorts, or feminine old fashioned bloomers, both of which can take the place of underwear if you feel so called. Cut out the flannel fabric as directed to in the pattern. Make sure the length of the shorts is what you want. Lengthen or shorten them as you desire. Follow the directions for the leg seams, side seams, crotch seams and elastic waist.
When it comes time to hem them, make a casing for elastic instead of an actual hem. I do this by folding over the fabric twice, leaving room to thread in 1/4" wide elastic. Measure the elastic around the portion of your body the hem will touch. Make it a bit bigger than you think you should for movement. Thread the elastic through the casing. Sew the elastic ends together, and stitch the casing closed. There you have Bloomers. They can be worn under dresses in the cold weather, to keep your innards warm and toasty. You don't really have to put elastic on the bottoms of the bloomers, but it is sort of ruffly and pretty and keeps in the heat a bit better.
I like a bit of lace sewed down to the bottom edge of the bloomers before I thread the elastic through, but this is personal matter. I prefer my bloomers and shorts to have an inseam about the same as Capri pants. Use your own judgement one way or the other.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
12.) MODEST PATTERNS
For clothing, some suggestions if you are not wearing cape dresses would
include jumpers (there are some easy ones out there), pioneer clothing, some
other historical type clothing like Victorian or Edwardian. You can check
online at the various websites like http://www.simplicity.com/ for easy jumper
patterns like 9830 or 5917 or other dresses. Personally, I cut some patterns
longer and fuller than what are called for in the pattern. I like my skirts
down to just above my ankles. There is pattern 9723 for a nice, classical
modest look. Or if you check http://www.mccall.com/ you can check the various
patterns of McCall's, Vogue or Butterick. There are also sites that you can
order patterns from for Plain, modest clothing like http://www.modestpatterns.com/,
or http://www.modestsewingpatterns.com/ (from The King's Daughters) or some others.
This dress pattern makes very nice, not dowdy pleated shirtwaists. So you can wear those around the house for your hubby then cover more with the cape and apron.
http://www.commonsensepatterns.com/patterns_friends.htm
Friday, February 11, 2011
Slouch Flower Hat
{In Honor of my Sister Stacy}
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
3 color's for this hat. Small amount of off white, & orange, and then Black
Finished Size: One size fits most adults
H hook for all of hat until last row, switch to I Hook
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPECIAL STS:
LDC = Long Double Crochet
To make a long double crochet, it's worked when working 2 dc in same st. So you'll work 1 dc normaly, then you'll work 1 long dc down into to beginning of stitch from row beneath what your working on.
SPECIAL X Sts:
skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in stitch just skipped X st just made. Each X st takes 2 sts to complete
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
(NOTE: Ch 3 counts as a stitch)
H hook: With Black yarn:
Row 1: ch 4, join to form ring, ch 3, 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, sl st in 3rd ch of ch-3 at beg of rnd: 12 dc
Row 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each dc, sl st in 3rd ch of ch-3 at beg of rnd: 24 dc. Finish off
Switch to white yarn
Round 3: join white yarn, ch 2, dc in next st, 1 LDC in same st, *1 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 LDC in same st. *around, join to top of ch 2.. (36 sts)
Row 4: ch 2, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *Repeat Around fasten off 48 dc
Switch to orange yarn
Row 5: join orange yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st, 1 LDC in same st, 1 dc in next 3 sts, 1 dc in next st, 1 LDC in same st *Repeat around. 60 sts
Row 6: ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next in 4 sts, 2 dc in next st. *Repeat Around... Fasten off 72 dc
Join Black yarn
Row 7: join black yarn, ch 2, 1 dc in next 5 st sm 1 dc in next st, 1 LDC in same st, *1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 dc in next stm 1 LDC in same st, *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2.. 84 dc
Row's - 8, 10, 12, 14: ch 2, dc in each dc around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch-3 at beg of rnd: 84 dc
Row's - 9 11, 13: ch 2, 1 dc in 4 sts, work X st over next 2 sts (As per instructions above), *1 dc in next 5 st, work X st over next 2 sts *Repeat Around. join to top of ch 2
Row 15: ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 sts,*(dc2tog, dc in next 5 dc) * Repeat around, Join 72 dc
Row 16: ch 2, 1 dc in next 3 dc, *(dc2tog, dc in next 4 dc) *Repeat around, Join 60 dc
Row 17: ch 2, 1 dc in next 2 sts, *(dc2tog, dc in next 3 dc) *Repeat around, Join 48 dc
NOTE: slip hat on your head, if loose and another round of the decrease, if it's to tight remove row 17. -{{{HAT should fit "snug" NOT tight}}}-
Row 18: ch 2, dc in each dc around, join.. 48 dc
(Change to I hook)
Row 19: ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, join and finish off
Monday, February 7, 2011
Cozy Bella' Cuddle Set
(Pattern In Honor of AlexZandra)
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
SPECIAL NOTE:
The Baby Sac in this photo above was made with an H hook. Perfect for a preemie baby with it's measurments being 8" x 16". For a regular size baby use an I hook and follow directions being careful to keep measurment's no longer 10" wide by 16" long
H ~or~ I Hook
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The universal sign for Love is X's & O's, {Hugs & Kiss'es} We've all learned this when we were children. God has Blessed with with the Love of Crochet & Knitting, so I do use the X's & O's alot in my patterns, sharing the Love of God with those I Bless with my handwork. I hope you enjoy Blessing others with this Cozy Cuddly Sac as well.JMSQ 1/15/2011
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPECIAL X Sts:
skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in stitch just skipped X st just made. Each X st takes 2 sts to complete
FPHDC:
Yo, insert hook from front to back and to front again around the vertical post (upright part) of next st, yo and draw yarn through, yo and complete hdc.
BPHDC:
Yo, reaching over top of piece and working on opposite side (right side) of work, insert hook from right to left around vertical post of next st, yo and draw yarn through, yo and complete hdc.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Baby Sac Pattern:
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, 1 hdc in each around, join (60 sts)
Row 7: ch 2, **skip first st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped. X sts just made **Repeat around, join (30 X sts)
Row's 8-33: Repeat row 7
Row 34: ch 2, 1 hdc in eah st around, finish off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, skip first st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped, (X st just made) * skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped, *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2 (24 X sts made)
Row 6 - 9: Repeat round 5.
Row 10: hdc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped,
*Repeat 10 more times. Join, ch 2 (11 X stitches)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join ^ fasten off, tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5: *skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped (X st just made)*Repeat across, ch 2 turn ( 9 X sts)
Row 6: 1 dc ineach st across, (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
SPECIAL NOTE:
The Baby Sac in this photo above was made with an H hook. Perfect for a preemie baby with it's measurments being 8" x 16". For a regular size baby use an I hook and follow directions being careful to keep measurment's no longer 10" wide by 16" long
H ~or~ I Hook
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The universal sign for Love is X's & O's, {Hugs & Kiss'es} We've all learned this when we were children. God has Blessed with with the Love of Crochet & Knitting, so I do use the X's & O's alot in my patterns, sharing the Love of God with those I Bless with my handwork. I hope you enjoy Blessing others with this Cozy Cuddly Sac as well.JMSQ 1/15/2011
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
SPECIAL X Sts:
skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in stitch just skipped X st just made. Each X st takes 2 sts to complete
FPHDC:
Yo, insert hook from front to back and to front again around the vertical post (upright part) of next st, yo and draw yarn through, yo and complete hdc.
BPHDC:
Yo, reaching over top of piece and working on opposite side (right side) of work, insert hook from right to left around vertical post of next st, yo and draw yarn through, yo and complete hdc.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Baby Sac Pattern:
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, 1 hdc in each around, join (60 sts)
Row 7: ch 2, **skip first st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped. X sts just made **Repeat around, join (30 X sts)
Row's 8-33: Repeat row 7
Row 34: ch 2, 1 hdc in eah st around, finish off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, skip first st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped, (X st just made) * skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped, *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2 (24 X sts made)
Row 6 - 9: Repeat round 5.
Row 10: hdc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped,
*Repeat 10 more times. Join, ch 2 (11 X stitches)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join ^ fasten off, tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5: *skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped (X st just made)*Repeat across, ch 2 turn ( 9 X sts)
Row 6: 1 dc ineach st across, (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
Saturday, February 5, 2011
5 Cuddle sets Finished, 1 to go
We have 6 Granddaughters, I have made Cozy Cuddle sets and dedicated 5 of them to each of our 1st 5 granddaughters. I have started #6 (Alex's Cuddle set) today and hope to have it on my BLOG within a couple day for you to enjoy
After Alex's Cuddle has been posted I'm taking a break from crocheting and going back to knitting for a week or so, just to breat things up a little
Enjoy our patterns, don't forget to look in our archives
Blessings Jean
After Alex's Cuddle has been posted I'm taking a break from crocheting and going back to knitting for a week or so, just to breat things up a little
Enjoy our patterns, don't forget to look in our archives
Blessings Jean
Cozy Zah'Beth Cuddle
(Pattern In Honor of Tablathia)
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
I Hook
Measures about 10" x 16"
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
SPECIAL NOTE:
The reason I did not do the body of this baby sac completly in V st is because it became to wide, so doing a few rows of V then pulling it back in with regular DC kept it in a nice shape for baby to use.
SPECIAL STS:
{V St - 1 dc, ch 1, 1dc ALL in same st}
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, skip next st, **[V st. 1 dc, ch1, 1dc in next st], skip next st, **Repeat around, join
Row 7-8: ch 2, V st in ch 1 space around, join
Row 9: ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 1 space around, join
Row 10-12: ch 2, 1 dc in each dc around. Join
Row 13: repeat row 6
Row's 14-15: repeat row 7
Row 16: repeat row 9
Row's 17-19: repeat row 10
Row 20: repeat row 6
Row's 21-22: Repeat row 7
Row 23: Repeat row 9
Row's 24-26: Repeat row 10
Row 27: Repeat Row 6
Row's 28-29: Repeat row 7
Row 30: 2 hdc in each ch 1 space around, join & fasten off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, *skip first st, 1 sc, 1 dc in next st, *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2
Row 6 - 9: Repeat round 5.
Row 10: hdc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped,
*Repeat 10 more times. Join, ch 2 (11 X stitches)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join ^ fasten off, tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5 -6: dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
I Hook
Measures about 10" x 16"
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
SPECIAL NOTE:
The reason I did not do the body of this baby sac completly in V st is because it became to wide, so doing a few rows of V then pulling it back in with regular DC kept it in a nice shape for baby to use.
SPECIAL STS:
{V St - 1 dc, ch 1, 1dc ALL in same st}
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, skip next st, **[V st. 1 dc, ch1, 1dc in next st], skip next st, **Repeat around, join
Row 7-8: ch 2, V st in ch 1 space around, join
Row 9: ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 1 space around, join
Row 10-12: ch 2, 1 dc in each dc around. Join
Row 13: repeat row 6
Row's 14-15: repeat row 7
Row 16: repeat row 9
Row's 17-19: repeat row 10
Row 20: repeat row 6
Row's 21-22: Repeat row 7
Row 23: Repeat row 9
Row's 24-26: Repeat row 10
Row 27: Repeat Row 6
Row's 28-29: Repeat row 7
Row 30: 2 hdc in each ch 1 space around, join & fasten off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, *skip first st, 1 sc, 1 dc in next st, *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2
Row 6 - 9: Repeat round 5.
Row 10: hdc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *skip next st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in st just skipped,
*Repeat 10 more times. Join, ch 2 (11 X stitches)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join ^ fasten off, tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5 -6: dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Cozy Hugs & Cuddles Set (Crochet) (Brittanie)
(Pattern In Honor of Brittanie)
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
NOTE:
I'll up-date this photo with the rest of this set ASAP
I Hook
Measures about 10" x 16"
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Cuddle Sac Pattern:
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, skip next st, *[1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next st], skip next, *Repeat around, Join, ch 2
Row 7: *1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 2 space around, *Repeat... join to top of ch 2, ch 2
Rows 8-31: Repeat row 7, finish off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, *skip first st, [1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next st], *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2
Row 6: ch 2, *1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 2 space around *Repeat, join
Row 7 - 9: Repeat round 6.
Row 10: Evenly space 48 hdc sts around hat, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *1 dc in each st *Repeat around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join , fasten off,
tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5 -6: dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
"JMSQ "Copyright Febuary © 2011
NOTE:
I'll up-date this photo with the rest of this set ASAP
I Hook
Measures about 10" x 16"
I used Redheart BabySoft yarn
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Cuddle Sac Pattern:
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st , 2 dc in next st, *repeat around. Sl st to in top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of dc to join. (48 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat around. Sl st in top of first dc to join. (60 Sts)
Row 6: ch 2, skip next st, *[1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next st], skip next, *Repeat around, Join, ch 2
Row 7: *1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 2 space around, *Repeat... join to top of ch 2, ch 2
Rows 8-31: Repeat row 7, finish off
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Hat Pattern:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch2, 12 dc in ring, sl st in top of first dc to join. (12
sts)
Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of first dc to join. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st,* repeat from * around.
Sl st to join. (36 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st * Repeat from *
around. (48 sts). Sl st in top of ch 2 to join.
Row 5: Ch 2, *skip first st, [1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next st], *Repeat around, join to top of ch 2
Row 6: ch 2, *1 sc, ch 2, 2 dc in each ch 2 space around *Repeat, join
Row 7 - 9: Repeat round 6.
Row 10: Evenly space 48 hdc sts around hat, sl st in top of ch 2
Row 11: Ch 2, fphdc in next st, bphdc in next st. *Repeat around. Finish off and weave in all ends.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Mits:
G Hook
(CH2 does NOT count as 1st dc)
Row 1: Ch 4, join to for ring, ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join ch 2
Row 2: 2 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row's 3-8: 1 hdc in each st around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 9: *1 dc in each st *Repeat around, join, ch 2 (22 sts)
Row 10: *sc in next st, ch 2, *Repeat aroound, join , fasten off,
tuck in tails
TIE's Make 2:
Ch 60 and weave in and out of Row 9
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Cozy Baby Booties:
G Hook
Row 1: Ch 31, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each ch across,
ch 2 turn (29 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (30 sts)
Row 4: sl st in next 7 sts, ch 2, 1 dc in next 17 sts, (LEAVE LAST
6 STS UN-WORKED), ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 5 -6: dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (18 sts)
Row 7: ch 1, *1 sc in next st, ch 1, *Repeat across
& Finish off leaving a real long tail for sewing up front side, front tow, & bottom of bootie
TIE's: Make 2
Ch 60, weave in and out of row 4
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Ear Warmer Scarf / Hat
"JMSQ "Copyright © 2011
H hook
Row 1: Ch 4, 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in last 2 sts, ch 2 turn (3 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (5 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (7 sts)
Row 4: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (9 sts)
Row 5: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (11 sts)
Row 6: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (13 sts)
Row 7: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (15 sts)
Row 8: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (17 sts)
Row 9: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (19 sts)
Row 10: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (21 sts)
Row 11: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (23 sts)
Row 12: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (25 sts)
Row's 13-18: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (25 sts)
(DO NOT Finish off)
DESREASE on each row's from this point on,
Row 19: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (23 sts)
Row 20: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 21: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (19 sts)
Row 22: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (17 sts)
Row 23: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (15 sts)
Row 24: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (13 sts)
Row 25: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (11 sts)
Row 26: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (9 sts)
Row 27: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (7 sts)
Row 28: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (5 sts)
Row 29: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (3 sts) Finish Off:
TRIM: join in 1st st on (L) of of last 3 sts, ch 3, work 4 dc in same st, sc in next st, **5 dc in next st, sc in next st, across to end of row, 5 dc in 1st sc of ch 3 on end, SL ST in middle st, ch 50, sl st down ch to beginning, sl st in base of this tie, sl st in next st, 5 dc in same st, sc in next st, REPEAT **
Place on your head and tie under your chin, enjoy
H hook
Row 1: Ch 4, 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc in last 2 sts, ch 2 turn (3 sts)
Row 2: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (5 sts)
Row 3: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (7 sts)
Row 4: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (9 sts)
Row 5: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (11 sts)
Row 6: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (13 sts)
Row 7: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (15 sts)
Row 8: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (17 sts)
Row 9: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (19 sts)
Row 10: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (21 sts)
Row 11: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (23 sts)
Row 12: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each st across, 2 dc in last st, ch 2 turn (25 sts)
Row's 13-18: 1 dc in each st across, ch 2 turn (25 sts)
(DO NOT Finish off)
DESREASE on each row's from this point on,
Row 19: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (23 sts)
Row 20: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (21 sts)
Row 21: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (19 sts)
Row 22: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (17 sts)
Row 23: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (15 sts)
Row 24: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (13 sts)
Row 25: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (11 sts)
Row 26: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (9 sts)
Row 27: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (7 sts)
Row 28: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (5 sts)
Row 29: 1 decrease over next 2 sts, 1 dc in each st across, 1 decrease over last 2 sts (3 sts) Finish Off:
TRIM: join in 1st st on (L) of of last 3 sts, ch 3, work 4 dc in same st, sc in next st, **5 dc in next st, sc in next st, across to end of row, 5 dc in 1st sc of ch 3 on end, SL ST in middle st, ch 50, sl st down ch to beginning, sl st in base of this tie, sl st in next st, 5 dc in same st, sc in next st, REPEAT **
Place on your head and tie under your chin, enjoy
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